Comments for Jericho Nursery & Garden Centers http://www.jerichonursery.com Jericho Nursery is Albuquerque’s Premier Retail Garden Center Tue, 07 Feb 2012 07:00:19 +0000 hourly 1 http://wordpress.org/?v=3.3.1 Comment on A Little Fall Clean-Up by Linda McElhare http://www.jerichonursery.com/2011/11/09/a-little-fall-clean-up/comment-page-1/#comment-33944 Linda McElhare Tue, 07 Feb 2012 07:00:19 +0000 http://www.jerichonursery.com/?p=1586#comment-33944 When we first moved here from the East Coast, we knew nothing about southwestern gardening. Boy, are we happy that we found Jericho Nursery. We attended a few classes and jumped right in. Jennifer came to our home and mapped out a plant and flower bed in front of our house (building with perennials and annuals). In just a few short years, neighbors and guests comment on how full and beautiful it is. Thanks to the friendly folks at Jericho and some dirty hands. When we first moved here from the East Coast, we knew nothing about southwestern gardening. Boy, are we happy that we found Jericho Nursery. We attended a few classes and jumped right in. Jennifer came to our home and mapped out a plant and flower bed in front of our house (building with perennials and annuals). In just a few short years, neighbors and guests comment on how full and beautiful it is. Thanks to the friendly folks at Jericho and some dirty hands.

]]> Comment on Southwest Soil Preparation by Sandra http://www.jerichonursery.com/2010/05/04/southwest-soil/comment-page-1/#comment-33812 Sandra Sun, 05 Feb 2012 19:47:34 +0000 http://www.jerichonursery.com/?p=92#comment-33812 David, The point I was trying to make last night in my blog entry is that compost is not a soil builder since the carbon of compost is not long lasting and it does not build structure, the macroaggregates of soil. If you use too much compost you can easily overdose the site with nutrients. I used nitrogen to illustrate my point last night when I described that using just 130 pounds of compost per 1000 square feet of garden space can contribute by default almost 3 pounds of nitrogen, which is plenty and in fact equal to what most crops use for the whole growing season. I say by default because if it's really compost made using the guidelines of the proper carbon to nitrogen ratio, the end product will contain that amount of nitrogen. Keep in mind that there are plenty of compost products on the market that are poorly made and which the store or compost maker cannot present the buyer with an analysis of nutrients performed by a qualified lab. It's like buying a used car where you ask the dealer "Show Me the Carfax". Remember, compost is and should be a fertilizer using an organic format! This is important to understand because compost is often sold for the wrong objective. David,

The point I was trying to make last night in my blog entry is that compost is not a soil builder since the carbon of compost is not long lasting and it does not build structure, the macroaggregates of soil. If you use too much compost you can easily overdose the site with nutrients. I used nitrogen to illustrate my point last night when I described that using just 130 pounds of compost per 1000 square feet of garden space can contribute by default almost 3 pounds of nitrogen, which is plenty and in fact equal to what most crops use for the whole growing season. I say by default because if it’s really compost made using the guidelines of the proper carbon to nitrogen ratio, the end product will contain that amount of nitrogen. Keep in mind that there are plenty of compost products on the market that are poorly made and which the store or compost maker cannot present the buyer with an analysis of nutrients performed by a qualified lab. It’s like buying a used car where you ask the dealer “Show Me the Carfax”. Remember, compost is and should be a fertilizer using an organic format! This is important to understand because compost is often sold for the wrong objective.

]]> Comment on Southwest Soil Preparation by Jennifer http://www.jerichonursery.com/2010/05/04/southwest-soil/comment-page-1/#comment-33808 Jennifer Sun, 05 Feb 2012 19:24:28 +0000 http://www.jerichonursery.com/?p=92#comment-33808 Greetings Sandra, I am very well aware of mycorrhizae and sell products that contain beneficial fungi and micronutrients to feed the plant and microorganisims as well. While the relationship between plants and microorganisms is well studied, there are plenty of studies that suggest the relationship between organic matter and microorganisms is just as important. In the journal of Applied Soil Ecology, studies in Spain showed that inoculantion of mycorrihizae which improved the soil aggregate stability and the addition of organic matter which lowered the soil's bulk density worked in unison to create an environment where the fungi were capable of better nutrient uptake from the composted residue. NMSU has plenty of information about the benefits of using organic matter on their website including providing a food source for microorganisms. I do agree that plants have difficulty sequestering iron, phosphorus and other nutrients from our soils but I would argue that pH is not part of the problem. Ideal pH levels for iron absorption in most plants should be between 5.0-6.5 and between 6.5-7.0 for phosphorus. With typical pH much higher than these numbers in much of the state, I would consider this a factor. While the benefits of the mycorrhizal relationship between plant roots and nutrient uptake are very important, the benefits of using composts or soil conditioners that have ingredients such as forest humus, decomposed cotton burrs, bat guano, earthworm castings, marine life and humic acid to create a forum for roots to grow are just as important in encouraging the colonization of the mycorrhizae in the first place. I often equate gardening to human nutrition, it put things in a perspective my customers can understand. It's all about moderation and eating a well-balanced diet for a healthy life style, right? I feel this is the same for plants. A good balance of healthy soils, microorganisims and nutrients help maintain healthier plants. Greetings Sandra,
I am very well aware of mycorrhizae and sell products that contain beneficial fungi and micronutrients to feed the plant and microorganisims as well. While the relationship between plants and microorganisms is well studied, there are plenty of studies that suggest the relationship between organic matter and microorganisms is just as important. In the journal of Applied Soil Ecology, studies in Spain showed that inoculantion of mycorrihizae which improved the soil aggregate stability and the addition of organic matter which lowered the soil’s bulk density worked in unison to create an environment where the fungi were capable of better nutrient uptake from the composted residue. NMSU has plenty of information about the benefits of using organic matter on their website including providing a food source for microorganisms.
I do agree that plants have difficulty sequestering iron, phosphorus and other nutrients from our soils but I would argue that pH is not part of the problem. Ideal pH levels for iron absorption in most plants should be between 5.0-6.5 and between 6.5-7.0 for phosphorus. With typical pH much higher than these numbers in much of the state, I would consider this a factor. While the benefits of the mycorrhizal relationship between plant roots and nutrient uptake are very important, the benefits of using composts or soil conditioners that have ingredients such as forest humus, decomposed cotton burrs, bat guano, earthworm castings, marine life and humic acid to create a forum for roots to grow are just as important in encouraging the colonization of the mycorrhizae in the first place.
I often equate gardening to human nutrition, it put things in a perspective my customers can understand. It’s all about moderation and eating a well-balanced diet for a healthy life style, right? I feel this is the same for plants. A good balance of healthy soils, microorganisims and nutrients help maintain healthier plants.

]]> Comment on Southwest Soil Preparation by Sandra http://www.jerichonursery.com/2010/05/04/southwest-soil/comment-page-1/#comment-33731 Sandra Sun, 05 Feb 2012 01:51:53 +0000 http://www.jerichonursery.com/?p=92#comment-33731 David, Magnesium can combine with carbonates just as easily as calcium and cause a caliche situation. In fact the cation exchange sites of the soils nutrient holding potential must be dominated by calcium with the proper calcium to magnesium ratio, otherwise your plants will suffer nutrition problems. Don't use Epson salt unless you know you have a Magnesium deficiency. It's rare to have a Magnesium deficiency in New Mexico soils! What softens soil and helps form macroaggregate structure of the soil are the recalcitrant carbon substances, the Humic Acids. Recalcitrant means the carbon is not food for microbes and does not decompose rapidly, where decaying roots, compost and dead microbes are part of the labile carbon of the soils organic matter and that goes away real fast. Fortifying the soil with Humic Acids that are Supramolecular will soften soil and help make nutrients available. That's more complicated to explain, but if you want me to I will. Our State Soil Scientist - Clarence Chavez will speak on this subject at this months Organic Farming Conference in Albuquerque if you want to learn more. David,

Magnesium can combine with carbonates just as easily as calcium and cause a caliche situation. In fact the cation exchange sites of the soils nutrient holding potential must be dominated by calcium with the proper calcium to magnesium ratio, otherwise your plants will suffer nutrition problems. Don’t use Epson salt unless you know you have a Magnesium deficiency. It’s rare to have a Magnesium deficiency in New Mexico soils! What softens soil and helps form macroaggregate structure of the soil are the recalcitrant carbon substances, the Humic Acids. Recalcitrant means the carbon is not food for microbes and does not decompose rapidly, where decaying roots, compost and dead microbes are part of the labile carbon of the soils organic matter and that goes away real fast. Fortifying the soil with Humic Acids that are Supramolecular will soften soil and help make nutrients available. That’s more complicated to explain, but if you want me to I will. Our State Soil Scientist – Clarence Chavez will speak on this subject at this months Organic Farming Conference in Albuquerque if you want to learn more.

]]> Comment on Southwest Soil Preparation by Sandra http://www.jerichonursery.com/2010/05/04/southwest-soil/comment-page-1/#comment-33727 Sandra Sun, 05 Feb 2012 01:38:58 +0000 http://www.jerichonursery.com/?p=92#comment-33727 I studied soil science in college and the typical pH of the Albuquerque area of 7.8 to 8.2 is not the problem. The problem is that the plant cannot sequester iron, phosphorus and other nutrients from the soil if the plant lacks a mycorrhizal relationship. Mycorrhizae are a beneficial fungus that works with its host plant by taking in nutrients and water to benefit the plant, while the plant feeds the fungus liquid carbon (sugar water). I just attended a seminar on this last spring in Alamagordo, put on by the USDA NRCS that was really interesting. The presenter was a guy from here in ABQ that owns a company that's part of a Technology Transfer Program with Sandia National Labs and that manufactures mycorrhizal fungus for use in mine reclamation and farming globally. Another speaker talked about how compost is not a soil builder because the carbon from compost is labile or temporary and that compost was really a fertilizer adding nutrients to the soil. For this reason, it was important to be very careful to not use too much compost as it could overdose the site with nutrients and salts. I did a study at NMSU that showed the maximum amount of compost a farmer should use per acre was about 6000 pounds, which contributes by default about 100 to 120 pounds of nitrogen, plenty for any crop. If you break that 6000 pounds down to a typical residential yard, you are looking at 130 pounds per 1000 sq. ft., not very much. I'd like to see your take as a nursery person on this information. I studied soil science in college and the typical pH of the Albuquerque area of 7.8 to 8.2 is not the problem. The problem is that the plant cannot sequester iron, phosphorus and other nutrients from the soil if the plant lacks a mycorrhizal relationship. Mycorrhizae are a beneficial fungus that works with its host plant by taking in nutrients and water to benefit the plant, while the plant feeds the fungus liquid carbon (sugar water). I just attended a seminar on this last spring in Alamagordo, put on by the USDA NRCS that was really interesting. The presenter was a guy from here in ABQ that owns a company that’s part of a Technology Transfer Program with Sandia National Labs and that manufactures mycorrhizal fungus for use in mine reclamation and farming globally. Another speaker talked about how compost is not a soil builder because the carbon from compost is labile or temporary and that compost was really a fertilizer adding nutrients to the soil. For this reason, it was important to be very careful to not use too much compost as it could overdose the site with nutrients and salts. I did a study at NMSU that showed the maximum amount of compost a farmer should use per acre was about 6000 pounds, which contributes by default about 100 to 120 pounds of nitrogen, plenty for any crop. If you break that 6000 pounds down to a typical residential yard, you are looking at 130 pounds per 1000 sq. ft., not very much. I’d like to see your take as a nursery person on this information.

]]> Comment on Get Proactive With Dormant Oils by CJW http://www.jerichonursery.com/2011/02/16/dormant-oils/comment-page-1/#comment-33706 CJW Sat, 04 Feb 2012 20:16:21 +0000 http://www.jerichonursery.com/?p=972#comment-33706 This is so helpful! I'd never even heard of dormant oils until I read this morning in the "Down to Earth" book that this is the time to use them. The book didn't tell me what they were nor where to find them, but Google took me right to you and indeed in a couple of weeks I'll drive out to your place on Alameda and pick some up (just wish you had a location in the Valley. Thanks as well for the informative description. This is so helpful! I’d never even heard of dormant oils until I read this morning in the “Down to Earth” book that this is the time to use them. The book didn’t tell me what they were nor where to find them, but Google took me right to you and indeed in a couple of weeks I’ll drive out to your place on Alameda and pick some up (just wish you had a location in the Valley. Thanks as well for the informative description.

]]> Comment on UPDATE: Winter Kill and Maybe Some Spring Cleaning by seo services http://www.jerichonursery.com/2011/03/11/winter-kill-and-some-spring-cleaning/comment-page-1/#comment-32562 seo services Tue, 24 Jan 2012 19:58:15 +0000 http://www.jerichonursery.com/?p=1054#comment-32562 Hello there, just discovered www.jerichonursery.com on Yahoo, and found that it's really awesome. I'm gonna watch out for brussels. I will appreciate if you keep writing about this subject in future. Lots of people will benefit from your writing. Cheers! Hello there, just discovered http://www.jerichonursery.com on Yahoo, and found that it’s really awesome. I’m gonna watch out for brussels. I will appreciate if you keep writing about this subject in future. Lots of people will benefit from your writing. Cheers!

]]> Comment on Jericho Television Spot by Jennifer http://www.jerichonursery.com/2010/10/09/jericho-television-spot/comment-page-1/#comment-26182 Jennifer Mon, 28 Nov 2011 15:44:11 +0000 http://www.jerichonursery.com/?p=594#comment-26182 Greetings Linda, I have many trees available including crape myrtles, however I would hesitate to have you plant a crape myrtle this late in the season. I would also recommend a tree that gets a bit larger, like an Ash or maybe a Purple-leaf Plum if you're looking for shade. In our area crape myrtles don't get nearly as big as they do in warmer, more humid climates. We have nice size 15 gallon trees starting at $129.99. Greetings Linda,
I have many trees available including crape myrtles, however I would hesitate to have you plant a crape myrtle this late in the season. I would also recommend a tree that gets a bit larger, like an Ash or maybe a Purple-leaf Plum if you’re looking for shade. In our area crape myrtles don’t get nearly as big as they do in warmer, more humid climates. We have nice size 15 gallon trees starting at $129.99.

]]> Comment on Jericho Television Spot by Linda http://www.jerichonursery.com/2010/10/09/jericho-television-spot/comment-page-1/#comment-25816 Linda Tue, 22 Nov 2011 20:40:44 +0000 http://www.jerichonursery.com/?p=594#comment-25816 Do you have any good size trees available still? Looking for the Crape Myrtle and other low maintenance for good shade. What are your prices on them? Do you have any good size trees available still? Looking for the Crape Myrtle and other low maintenance for good shade. What are your prices on them?

]]> Comment on A Little Fall Clean-Up by rick hobson http://www.jerichonursery.com/2011/11/09/a-little-fall-clean-up/comment-page-1/#comment-25722 rick hobson Mon, 21 Nov 2011 22:11:55 +0000 http://www.jerichonursery.com/?p=1586#comment-25722 I thought maybe I should be part of my own website. Hello everyone. I thought maybe I should be part of my own website. Hello everyone.

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